Wednesday 15 April 2009

Graciousness

Two weeks in Thailand is not a long time but just enough to reconnect with friends, as well as a nation long admired for its non-colonised history, superb cuisine and genuinely gracious people. While the bonds have been decisively reaffirmed, I couldn't help noticing there is something about this 21st century Thailand that's different from the one I knew in the 1980's, from that of even 18 months ago. And it's not just that places aren't as they were before.

Certainly, Koh Samui has paid the price since the development of its airport in 1986-7. Today's departure facility is tropical luxury, laidback and chilled if reminiscent of an upmarket outdoor mall. In sharp contrast to the almost endless configurations of 24-hour tailors, massage shops, pizza eateries and bars, tightly packed along the exotic lanes we used to call "The Strip" all those years ago. Except Samui's Strip is today the length of Chaweng Beach, the 5Kms of fine, white sand that squeeked under your footsteps. At least in my memory.

With not a glimpse of Gulf of Thailand turquoise peeking out between end-to-end developments, it was the proverbial needle in a haystack finding an escape Soi (lane) through to the beach to recapture paradise lost. Nearby Lamai Beach had already disappointed. Oh the changes that have been made!

Not so, along the island's western shoreline. Still very local, undeveloped, intrinsically Thai. What a joy! Then there's the breathtaking view out to Phang Nga, Ang Thong and Koh Tao from the top of the Four Seasons arrival sala. Food for the soul!

And it's that turquoise-peacock green... how it touches that deep place in me.